Tuesday, 25 February 2014

London Fashion Week highlights: Meadham Kirchhoff

The Central Saint Martins educated design duo - who, I like to believe, work in a studio shaped like a shoe, surrounded by in Lewis Carroll characters and drink sumptuous cocktails from glasses shaped like zoo animals – again showed off what they do best at LFW. This was over-the-top, gawky and zany. Frankly, right up my street. This time it was in homage seemingly to Victoriana Austin Powers. Autumn/winter at the Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff design house was prototypically eclectic and perfectly odd.

A bunch of young, quirky looking models stomped down the catwalk in rainbow boots; iridescent reptilian macs, bouclé suits, flowing frocks and pastel veils.

Yet blink a few times, re-focus and MK actually put on a dazzling display of ultra femininity – heightened to the nth degree, sure, but a few pick-out pieces that if worn as an entity, wouldn’t so much make your eyes bleed but rather transport you to an alternative world of translucence and romance.

The peace rarely lasts long in fashion and true to form Meadham and Kirchoff shoots the watcher back to planet crazy with rocket-metallic, leather super-hero dress complete with fluted sleeves and Mary-Janes. Only for the most ostentatious, self-believers… but hey, they’re people too.

And if you’re not one prone to kookiness, Meadham Kirchhoff sure knows how to draw it out and make the fashion pack smile. And heck, we should all be grateful for that.

Meadham Kirchhoff AW14 (Daniel Sims, British Fashion Council)


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London Fashion Week highlights: Simone Rocha

Refined, elegant with just a little flounce, Simone Rocha’s outing for LFW was just plain wonderful. Neat cocktail dresses and soft tailoring were sweetened with dalliances of fabric in perfect ruffles. 

There was a sense of regalia to proceedings; gowns befitting a lady of Henry VIII's court, only far more expressive and independent than a typical young patriarchy-controlled Tudor princess. 

Flounces there may have been but Rocha’s autumn/winter collection wasn’t saccharine. It was polished, preened just-so and for the most part, totally wearable. The daughter of stalwart expressive fashion designer John Rocha, Simone kept things seamlessly chic in darkest black satin, grown-up snakeskin and tartan. 

Mature it may have been but this collection wasn’t without an element of fun. A sea-weed looking green leopard-print dress was crowned with a tiara and pastel-pink geometric meshing played with monarchical perspectives of propriety. 

Ecclesiastical embroidery and sheer dresses in nude and blood red retained a sense of youth and modernity in their boxy shapes and loose-cut. A princess she may be, but Simone Rocha's girl knows that daddy king is in charge so that she can party.

Simone Rocha AW14 (Daniel Sims, British Fashion Council)
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Thursday, 12 December 2013

Sweden's young fashion stars: Lina Michal

The Swedish sky is shining bright with up-and-coming fashion stars as Stockholm's elite design college graduates have increasingly been scooping up awards as well as prized post-graduate places at prestigious international fashion colleges. YLC sought out one of these future trailblazers, Lina Michal to find out how her fashion career has suddenly rocketed.

“I’m feeling a lot of gratitude,” Michal told YLC’s Victoria Hussey of winning the esteemed Vogue Young Vision award 2013.

The Beckman's School of Design graduate claimed the title after receiving a galactic 90,000 votes in the world-wide fashion authority's annual search for “young talent with a clear design vision” (VOGUE.it).  Michal beat out top-notch design competition from fifty-five countries, including ten finalists from prestigious design colleges in Denmark, Italy, Russia and the UK.
"It's fantastic," said Michal.

Part of the Vogue Young Vision prize is the chance to design and sell an eponymous fashion collection with top online fashion retailer MUUSE. Michal has been designing and redesigning her MUUSE collection since winning the title back in October.

“It's based on the collection I entered into the competition which was supposed to be for fall/winter but we looked at it and thought it would work so much better as a spring/summer collection."

Apt, as Michal's winning collection was actually her final graduation project shown at Beckmans right at the start of summer 2013, in May.

"We’re working to interpret the collection into ready-to-wear and to distill the core of it into something that can be more easily worn.”

With the title Heathen Hearts, Michal's last catwalk presentation before graduating from the Stockholm design school - one of raw, organic romance - was tinged with the kind of mood only a nation that spends its winters cloaked primarily in darkness and bitter cold would understand.

“I wanted to make something with a Scandinavian point of view but that was also about something other than functional minimalism,” Michal explained to YLC.

“I wanted to convey the feeling of something joyful and organic with just a notion of something dark and raw.”

At times, the collection was so in tune with sweetness and romance it would have been easy to get swept away with feeling and forget to appreciate the exquisite craftsmanship and design skill on display.

After digging into her Swedish heritage and exploring important traditional festivities such as Midsummer, bound in nature, Michal created something outdoorsy and Scandinavian in a far more organic sense than the click-and-fit Ikea practicality synonymous with Swedish design and favoured by so many Swedish fashion designers.

Lina Michal Heathen Hearts collection / Beckmans

Michal used clusters of beads resembling fruits of the forest to adorn voluminous gowns while swathes of fabric in overgrown shapes and mounds of petals were testament to a Swedish designer not afraid of spending time, crafting ideas and labouring for an industry she is clearly excited to now be a part of.

"I'm currently interning with Opening Ceremony in New York; I’ll be there until April," Michal explains.


"Leaving school definitely means a new chapter and I’m taking it a little bit as it comes. I'm eager to explore different aspects of the industry - and I’m having fun.”


Lina Michal's Heathen Hearts inspired collection will be available to purchase on MUUSE.com in 2015.

Victoria Hussey

Tuesday, 16 July 2013

Jeepers creppers, your shoes hurt my peepers and other stories...

http://www.thelocal.se/48596/20130619/

Jean Paul Gaultier's new show hits Stockholm

http://www.thelocal.se/48666/20130624/

Is it true that all Swedes dress the same?
http://www.thelocal.se/48704/20130626/

Why Swedes should be grateful to hipsters
http://www.thelocal.se/49000/20130712/

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Monday, 15 July 2013

Check me out... if you like

Currently interning at thelocal.se - fashion writing and newsy stuff. Check me out.

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ps. if you don't want to take a peek at my work on thelocal.se (and why wouldn't you?), here's a nice picture of a panda. Because, well, it's cute. Enjoy!


Image: George Lu/Flickr

Wednesday, 22 May 2013

Blooming beautiful

Ahhh the Chelsea flower show. One of my favourite world events of the year. That and London Fashion Week and World's Strongest Man. I have an eclectic bunch of interests.

Whilst I'm not sure what I could post as fashion-related to World's Strongest Man - muscle vests and knee strapping perhaps - I do know exactly what to write about when Chelsea is on.

Flowers.

I've never been lucky enough to visit the world's best flower show that is The Chelsea Flower Show, but I did recently visit the wonderul Keukenhof in Holland. Unfortunately, although it was early April, the blooms were not out in full splendour as they should have been because of the silly cold weather. Not that I blame the buds, I don't come into bloom unless it's at least 17Âșc.

The wonderful indoor displays in Keukenhof of tulips, lillies and orchids amongst hundreds of other species made up for the lack of colour outside. Not to mention the fabulous fashion and London-themed displays.

An indoor tulip display at Keunkenhof
Hats and flowers make the best of talking pieces

If I could, I would wear a dress entirely made of blooms. Imagine the fresh and sweet scent for one thing. Alas, it's probably not that practical. 

Hello pretty
Sitting on the bus would be problematic for one thing. In fact moving, would probably not work period. I'd shed petals faster than you can say 'walking pollenator'.

Never mind, the designers have floral fashion covered.


Givenchy 1956
Christian Dior s/s 13
Christian Dior s/s 13 Haute Couture

Be inspired and bloom.
Holly Fulton s/s 13
Prada s/s 13

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